Ladakh The Land of Lamas

The people of Ladakh belong to three distinct races, namely the Dards, the mons and the Mongolians. The first two belong to Aryan race where as Mongolians have close resemblance to Tibetans. They migrated some time in the 10th century AD from Central Asia. Majority of population of Ladakh is Buddhist. Lamas play an important role in the socio religious life of the people of Ladakh. Many of the big monasteries run schools where the monks are trained by Lamas in the Art of Worship performance of various ceremonies. The Lamas also act as astrologers and physicians. They are also responsible for organising festivals and fairs at the Monasteries. Women of Ladakh are equal partners in all walks of life. There is no Pardah system and they go about unveiled and run shops or work in the fields. They have love for dancing and dance is an essential feature of all festivals and religious ceremonies. Honesty and Straight forwardness is in their nature. They are very polite, gentle and hospitable.  ( Changpas of Ladakh )

Ladakh has poverty, mass ignorance and grave social evils. The total rainfall is 3 inch in a year and almost the entire population lives on agriculture. The land being sandy and unproductive, the average yield is generally about three to four times the quantity of the seed used. The methods of Agriculture are very crude and the Area a family can cultivate profitably is proportionate to its man power. There are no irrigational facilities. Transport, labour, weaving and knitting occupy almost all the time the people can spare from their work in the fields. Almost every house has its own loom on which it weaves the fabrics it needs. People sew their own clothes and make their own footwear. Business is mostly in the hands of foreigners domiciled or otherwise. Flocks of sheep and goat form the only wealth of the nomads living in the Area. Most of the shawl wool of Kashmir is from the region whose upland pastures support immense flocks of sheep and goats. Wheat and grain are the main crops grown in Ladakh. The latter in conjunction with tea, form the essential elements of the food of the people in the higher altitudes. Rice used on festival occasions by those who can afford the expense is brought from is brought from Kashmir. Foreign varieties of vegetables have been introduced in Leh where vegetables are cultivated for the market also. The vegetables grown in other localities being mostly meant for home consumption.

Ladakh is a problem province so far its communications are concerned. Distances are so great and communications are poor that certain localities are completely cut off from the rest of Ladakh during winter months and Ladakh itself is isolated from the outside world, when heavy snowfall blocks all the passes connecting Kashmir, Jammu with it for over five months a year. All this badly affects the material well being of the people.

Inspite of the fact that about 90% of the Buddhist population is literate in Bodhi Tibetan Language, Urdu continues to be the medium of instructions in the primary stage in Ladakh. Though children of Ladakh are going out for education.Still there is educational backwardness. People are out of touch with modern pol. and scientific thoughts. They are ignorant about the day to day happenings in the world. There is no printing press in the area and no daily news paper is published there. Since Bodhi is their mother tongue, it is essential that instruction should be imparted to Ladakhi children in that language as the Bodhi is a highly developed language.

The Shias form a majority among the Muslims of and Kargil. The Shias are well organised socially while the influence of Buddhist ethics and philosophy of life reveal itself impressively in the daily life of Buddhists. The formal religion practised by them is a mixture of Buddhism, Tantra and Bonism. The Lamas or Monks are held in high esteem and the recarnating Kushoks or heads of Monasteries regarded almost as divinities. The Lamas have to live as celebes and according to the prescribed discipline. They are therefore, admitted to the Gompas in very early life to enable them to adjust themselves to monastic life before they are subjected to influences antagonistic to that life. As the order of the monk is "fundamental to Buddhism" and as the social and religious life of the Buddhists revolves round the Gompas, the Buddhists love song and dance. The tolerance and liberality of the Buddhists is great.

The caravan serias maintained by the Gompas are open to people of all faiths and nationalities.
Two social evils, ugly and venomous, are eating into the vitals of Ladakh Buddhists. One is the custom of polyandry under which the brothers of a husband share the favour of his wife. The other is very common use of "Chang" and intoxicating beverage made from gram and barley. Polyandry has prevailed for generations past through out Ladakh amongst the Buddhists. This custom was certainly not introduced by Buddhism but Buddhism has not checked it so far. The "Chang" habit is gradually impoverishing the people mentally morally, physically and economically.

As the Ladakhi people have now educational awareness and are fully awakened, they are suffering for want of education. The children of Ladakh either come to Jammu or Srinagar for higher education, for this purpose, major portion of the income of their parents is spent on the education only and other areas remain neglected. There is need of providing the Ladakhies all educational facilities in their home land up to University education level. This will help in tension free education and their economic upliftment.

Taste the most sumptuous cuisine of Jammu

The Indian cuisines are representing a distinctive cultural trend in different regions of the country, due to climatic and geographical conditions. In fact, each cultural group has its own specialized and distinctive basic dishes, desserts and sweets which reflect the diversity on one hand and drinks, achar, and snacks have unity in Indian food on the other. Likewise Jammu region has its own lip smacking, mouth watering dishes. Almost every zone in Jammu is famous for a particular dish.

Yellow Rice
The ethnic food of yellow rice and rajmah at Lakhanpur Bus Stand are available at Samba. The ambal / umbal is sweetened pumpkin or Kaddu, an important dish form the part of the full course meal with a variety of lentils or Dal such as Rajmash, Roungi, Mash, Moungi, Channa dal etc. The ambal is prepared from Imali, Gur, Methi seeds, green and red chili, haldi, salts and other species.Oriya is a raita of potato prepared in mustard oil with rai, adds to the digestion of the highly oiled cuisines.

Madraa
Madraa comprised of kali mash dal, garlic, ginger and tomato paste headed in butter with khoya and other species added to the taste with required salt.

The non-vegetarian dishes are ambla meat or khatta meat prepared with gur, anardana, palak, lamb or goat meat as per taste and cooked in iron pan which supplement as source of iron in the dish. The traditional cooking in iron or nickel utensils probably prevented many forms of diseases other wise unheard in good olden times. The champs are the chest pieces of ribs with spines boiled and prepared with species.

Kabargah are the fried champ rather than boiled during preparation method.
Kababs the minced mutton roasted in an iron road, over gas is electric oven.
The chicken dipped in the paste of curd and species is roasted in electric or gas oven earlier in the charcoal which had a different taste. A shop in Pucca Danga is famous for Khatta or sour meat. Adisha is the mutton boiled in curd and milk overnight then fried in the ghee.

Khameera
The Khameera or whole wheat or midda roti is prepared after fermentation in the oven or tandoor in large size. The Bajra roti eaten in the dry belt is highly fibrous flour with lot of energy and require hard digesting. The makki roti eaten only in the winter, the fibrous content in it helps to prevent the stone formation tendency in the body like western people taking lots of corn flakes.

Sweet rice or meatha patt is prepared in sugar. The namkeen rice or loona patt is prepared with salt rice. The plain or boiled rice with drained out water and the yellow or Shirin pulao with saffron is to provide colour and dry fruits add flavor.

Achar and chattnis are natural diet supplements and help in digestion of the food. The art of making pickles or Achar is one of the unusual features of Indian cuisines. The spices and oil added in vegetables or fruits enhances the taste and preservation of the fruits and vegetables for a long time.

The chattnis of pudina, anardana add taste to the food in the main course diet.
The laungi or the peeled green mango achar with species and salt pickle prepared with rai, metha as mustard oil, as preservative with puri, suchi with sweet suji halwa or shirin pulaao on festive occasions.

Kachalu
There is variety of tasty snacks taken in it between the two meals. Kachalu chat is the freshly prepared snack mixed with spice, and referred as tangy sour sweet evening snacks available in all shopping centres. The high carbohydrate content diet supplements the various vitamins in the form of Imali or tamarind as natural source of vitamin C. Kachalu Chaat, a potato based tangy sour sweet snack specialty of Jammu is available in all shopping centres. The traditional outlet in a lane called Sardar ki gali opposite Raghunath Temple.(Ramkund in Poonch)

Indian has variety of sweets and desserts. The desserts are basically rice or milk products and their food value is a combination of proteins, carbohydrates etc.

Milk Cake
The milk cake of Samba is a thick, white lump of sweetened condensed milk, heated to brown core in the centre producing milk granules as its specialty. The chocolate barfi is made from over heated khoya. The so called chocolate, without a milligram of cocoa, the milk converted into brown and condensed till it can be sliced as glossy dark brown colour of Chocolate. The chocolate is famous at a shop at Gandhi Nagar, Purani Mandi in the Jammu City.

The Kud chocolate cooked in the pure ghee or clarified butter during the making process of the sweet dish is unique feature.

The Jammu sweets available at Pacca Danga opposite Laxmi Narayan Temple is one of best prepared in vegetable oil. Pawan shop at Akhnoor or Canal Road at Bakshi Nagar crossing sold its special favorites Kulfi in traditional way lost ground and now shifting to Western style ice-cream.

Kalarhi
Nandini, road side famous stalls before the Nandini Tunnel on NHIA are renowned for Kalarhi or cottage cheese raw as well as cooked. The Kalarhi is a form of rancid cheese in which butter is not drained out. The cheese pakoras and Mirch pakoras or chili dumplings in lentil flour or Besan are most favoured snacks. On the Jammu- Srinagar NHIA the shops at Samrauli, near Chennani is a famous stop over for raw Kalarhi available till afternoon. The Kalarhi of Ramnagar is a also famous hub in Udhampur Distt. The Kalarhi is the most sought after local cuisine fried and eaten in various ways. It is available in various versions to enhance the food value. In Udhampur, the Kalarhi mixed with fried / boiled Soyabean and species come as a complete food with high protein supplement snacks.

Pateesa
Kud on NHIA is famous for pateesa, a yellow sweet also known as Sohanpari, the besan turned into a fibrous cake pieces in pure desi ghee. Peerah, a few km ahead of Batote, there are many dhabas who serve rajma, boiled rice / chawal and mixed with pure desi ghee round the clock on the Jammu – Srinagar Highway a renowned stop for the Rajma –Chawal. The bund / kulcha filled with mutter / yellow pea mixed with imali water, species and lemon juice. The fried potato tikki with black or white gram boiled, fried and eaten with the bund/kulcha other ethnic cuisines readily found in the Cities of the region.

The traditional cuisines in the present scenario of liberalizationhave been taken over by the Western style “multi-national food joints” and won the heart of younger generation. ‘The old is gold’ is the best saying among the older people, in the same way the traditional local cuisines are time tested in terms of their food value, suitable to climate and geographical conditions. For example, the rice and rice fermented products in South India cuisines easily digested in comparison to the wheat roti, as rice product suited best to the climatic conditions of southern part of the India.

The Federal Administration of USA proved that the use of turmeric or Haldi and other species act as antiseptics, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that we still do not know.
Therefore, our ethnic food has more food value in terms of providing proteins, vitamins and other enzymes provided naturally rather than harmful chemical added in fast food like Pizza, potato chips, burgers etc to enhance the taste of food.

There is a need of permanent outlets in the city like Jammu to promote tourism development and the preservation of tangible or living heritage like cuisines. The bank of the river Tawi in a form of Juhu beach having eating joints or Jammu Haat canbe planned as the best place for the purpose. The ethnic cuisines makers court to save the vanishing cuisine of the region.

Ramkund Mandir in Poonch

Ramkund is the symbol of our ancient culture, art and tradition. This is the oldest temple in Poonch region. As per the archaeological report, this beautiful temple was built by Raja Lalitaditya (i.e. between 724 AD and 761 AD) because the style, architecture and the age of the temple is the same as of those temples built by Raja Lalitaditya in Kashmir. This temple, having a very attractive look and history, is embedded in the past. It, however, remained out of sight due to locational disadvantages. Now this old shrine is regaining its erstwhile status.

Ramkund temple is located in a sleepy village Narol of Mendhar tehsil, 62 kilometers from Poonch township. This important religious place is located in a deep gorge at the foothill of Shah Star Range of mountains. At present there are three sacred ponds apart from the ancient temple. They are known as Ram Kund, Lachman Kund and Sitakund. Ram Kund is bigger in size (25' x 25') than Lachman and Sita Kund. A spring water emerges exactly on the northern side of Ramkund. The water of this spring pours into Ramkund which overflows to Lachman Kund and at last Sita Kund. The latter is the smallest in size. These kunds have been designed in such a way that the water of spring after filling all the kunds flows in nallah. On the eastern side of Ramkund, there is an historical temple of 8th century. Stone structure stair case begins from the eastern side of Ramkund upto the entrance of the temple. At present, there is an idol of Hanuman which was installed in the temple in the recent past. On the northern side, a small structure houses the residence of Pujari and a cowshed. A 'Kutiya' has also been constructed near the temple for ‘Sadhus’ and pilgrims. The western side of this holy place is surrounded by banana trees and a small garden of plums which gives this place, look of an 'Ashram.'A big religious congregation is held on 14th of 'Chaitra (March) every year and is known as 'Mela Chetar Chodas'. Devotees from all parts of Poonch and Rajouri district participate in it. People after taking a dip in the holy water or kunds offer prayers in the temple and take part in 'Bhajan Kirtan' organized by the 'Mandlies' (Groups). The religious programme continues for one full day.  ( Buddha Amarnath in Poonch )

As per Raj Taringni of Kalhana, there is a very interesting story behind the construction of this temple. Kalhana narrates that Raja Lalitaditya who was a great warrior and had converted Poonch town into Chawani (cantonment) of his forces, named this places as Purn-Utsva (with the passage of time, this name became Poonch from Purn-Utsva) Kalhana writes that once Raja Lalitaditya left for hunting in the jungle, he reached this place in the evening. At this very solitary place, he saw in the nearby a girl singing a devotional song while a beautiful girl was dancing in this uninhabited place. When the song was over, both the girls bowed their heads at this place and left. The next day also, the same ritual was repeated by the same girls. Then Raja Lalitaditya accested these girls and enquired from them why they were dancing and singing their devotional song at a lonely place in the jungle. The girls replied that they were Devdasis and doing so on the direction of their mothers and grand mothers. "This is our traditional job but we do not know the reason of our dancing at this place." Raja thought that this may be some 'sacred place.' Next day, he ordered for excavation of that particular place where the Devdasis were offering prayer in the evening. After some excavation, two old temples came to surface whose doors were shut. When Raja opened the door, he saw that two idols of Keshav were installed there. One the back of these idols, it was engraved that these idols were installed by Ramchander Ji during his visit to Kashmir. Raja Lalitaditya transported these idols to Kashmir along with him and he installed the idol of Ram Chander Ji in the temple of Vishnu Parihas in Parbaarspur, while the second idol was taken by the queen and she installed it in Chakrshveri temple.

It appears that while removing the original idols from Ramkund temple, Raja Lalitaditya got renovated or reconstructed the original excavated monument with some additions and converted this place into an important religious shrine. No doubt that Raja Lalitaditya had built Poonch city but at present, there is no such building existing on the ground belonging to Lalitaditya's time except Ramkund temple Mendhar. This is the only temple in this region which refers to the construction made by Lalitaditya.

Mr Stein who translated Raj Taringani of Kalhana visited the place where Lalita Ditya excavated and discovered the old temple of Ram Chander Ji's time. Stein visited Poonch in 1892 AD and identified a number of places like Loharkote (Loran), Attalika (Atoli), Saramber (Chamber Kanari), Sawvernik (Surankote) mentioned in the Raj Taringani. But he could not identify Ram Kund Temple of Raja Lalitaditya's time because this temple was located in a very unknown place which was far away from the main route leading towards Kashmir in those days. All the habitants of this area were non-Hindus. Even most of the Hindus were knowing very little about this shrine in the past. Therefore, they could not talk about this temple to Stein. ( Sanskrit as language )

The other proof is that Devdasis reported to Raja Lalitaditya that they belonged to a nearby village known as Sover Dehmana at that time. This village is still existing near Narol (where temple exists) and known as Dharana instead of Dehmana. Therefore, on the facts given above, it is clear that Ramkund is the same temple which was excavated and reconstructed by Raja Lalitaditya in 8th century. ( Chandi Dham Machail )

Sanskrit the core of all languages

Sanskrit is the life line of the spiritual consciousness of India. It is not merely a language. It is the style of India. Enriched with Indian scriptures, Sanskrit gives the divine massage of world peace and prosperity of mankind Sanskrit. Sanskrit usually called "God's own language'' is slowly gaining world wide recognition.

Indian tradition knows Sanskrit as the language of introducing the gods, which has been the dominant language of Indians for a period covering over four thousand years. Viewed from its rich heritage of literature, its fascinating charm of words, its flexibility of expression in relation to thought, Sanskrit occupies a singular place in the literature of the world. Over two people are speaking simple Sanskrit all over the world regardless of their status, economic gender or religion. Learning Sanskrit creates an influence on mind and body. The sounds of Sanskrit help blending thought and action. No wonder several corporates are using the language to deal with HR issues.Despite being complicated the language inculcates self discipline.

Sanskrit has played a vital role in the development of all Indian languages and in the preservations of the culture heritage of India. Despite being complicated the langauge inculcates self discipline. No Indian language can flourish without the help of Sanskrit. Sanskrit also provides the theoretical foundations of ancient sciences.

Sanskrit is the core of all Indian languages and has been entitled as a Mother of all languages storing vast knowledge and philosophies of universal order vis-a-vis vadas, puranas, history of dharmas, philosophy, medicine, astrology, culture, art, architecture and holistic healing approaches like yoga (which has raised the position of India world vide). "Indian may justly claim to be the original home of scientific philology. In one of the most ancient Sanskrit books, the Samhita of the Krishan Yajurveda, there are distinct indications of the dawn of linguistic study''. It has been said by eminent writers that at one time Sanskrit was the only language spoken all over the world. "Sanskrit is the mother of Greek, Latin and German languages and it has no other relation to them. From all that has been said above, it is clear that Sanskrit was a living speech in ancient India. The sacred literature of India, inferior to none in verity or extent, is superior to may in nobility of thought, in sanctity of spirit and in generality of comprehension. In beauty or prolixity, it can vie with any other literature ancient and modern. Despite the various impediments to the steady development of the language, despite the successive disturbances, internal and external, which India has to encounter ever since the dawn of history, she has successfully held upto the world her archaic literary map. The beginnings of her civilization are yet in obscurity.  ( Mata Kheer Bhawani )

Relatively to any other language of the ancient world, the antiquity of Sanskrit has an unquestioned priority. "Yet such is the marvelous continuity'' says Max Muller ''between the past and the present of India, that in spite of repeated social convulsions, religious reforms and foreign invasions, Sanskrit may be said to be still the only language that is spoken over the whole extent of vast country.''

It is important to mention here that the language of Sanskrit has deep roots and has a great impact in all the various subjects like history, mathematics, astronomy, and astrology besides other umpteen subjects. Not even in India but in abroad also the institutions of Sanskrit are putting great impact in all the spheres of their life for instance therapy like Yoga, Mediation etc. These institutions are playing a very important role in uplifting the rich language of Sanskrit which is the mother of all languages. But it is very pity that in our country India no efforts have been made honestly to up lift Sanskrit language. It is worth while to mention here that the said language is known to the handful of people. ( Birbal  Maheshdas Bhat )

Though institution are teaching the enrich language of Sanskrit but there after the fate of the pupils is so miserable that they are not in position to carry out there livelihood because till date the Govt. of India has not opened all the options of giving employment and absorbing such student in the Govt sector. Whereas priority has been given to the other languages. And day is not for away when language of Sanskrit will be confined to black and white and there after become a part of exhibitions.

Led Zeppelin first choice was Kashmir Song

Kashmir is a song by English rock band Led Zeppelin Physical graffiti from their sixth album, released in 1975. It was written by Jimmy Page and Robert Plant (with contributions from John Bonham) for three years, with texts dating back to 1973.  ( Changpas the nomadic pastoralists of ladakh )

Kashmir is considered one of zeppelins led most successful songs, each of the four members of the group agreed that it is so far one of their best musical achievements. John Paul Jones suggested that it contains all the elements that composed the sound of Led Zeppelin. The plant said that the song was one of my ways [conducted] favorite zeppelin because it has all the latent energy and power which was not heavy metal. It was something else. It was the pride of Led Zeppelin. During a television interview in January 2008, he also called Kashmir as its first choice of all the songs of Led Zeppelin perform it, comment Im most proud of that. Page said he thought the song was one of the best compositions of tapes.

The song focuses on a riff of guitar chord progression signature, which was first introduced on bands working from home-studio pages. It was initially an agreement, an extension of a guitar-cycle that Page had worked on for years. It was the same cycle that produced the dark side of the mountains, the summer white and non-distributed way, swan-song. Because the player down, and keyboard John Paul Jones had been late for the recording sessions, the time spent working at riff with drummer John Bonham. Both demoed the latest in 1973. The plant was later added the middle section and the beginning of 1974 Jones added all the pieces of rope. ( Sanskrit core of all languages )

The guitar was played in an alternative guitar: the strings are made to open or Dsus4 DADGAD. Bonhams drums courtesy of the device that phasing effect of an early dusk phaser supplied by engineer Ron NEVISON. The plant said that the setting drum Bonhams is the key to the song: Was it what he has not made it work.

The song also includes many distinctive musical patterns of Moroccan music, Indian and Middle Eastern classic. Page explained that I had a sitar for some time and I was interested in modal tunings and substance Arabic. It began with a riff and then used the Eastern lines below.

Brass and orchestral strings with strings of electric guitar and mellotron are also used in the song. This is one of the few Led Zeppelin songs to use outside musicians. Session players were brought in for string sections and horn. According to Jones, the secret of successful pieces of rope keyboard is to play only the roles that a real string section would play. Ie, a line for the first violins, a line for the second violins, one for Violas, one for cello, one for bass. Some divided parts [two or more notes in a line] are allowed, but keep to a minimum. Think melodiously.        ( Land of Lamas )

It was originally called the drive in Kashmir, the texts of the song were written by Plant in 1973 just after the tour of the USA led zeppelins 1973, in an area he called the lands of southern Morocco, while driving by in Tantan Goulimine in the Sahara desert. This was despite the fact that the song is named for Kashmir, a region located in the north of the Indian subcontinent. As explained in factory journalist Cameron Crowe rock:

The whole inspiration came from the fact that the road continued indefinitely. It was a single track road which an orderly shut down across the desert. Two miles to the east and west edges were Sandrock. He basically looked like you were leading to a reduction in a channel, this dilapidated road, and there was apparently no end to it. Ah, let the sun beat down on my face, stars to fill my dreams Its my favorite of this, all my love and light and two or three were really the most enjoyable. But Kashmir in particular. He was so positive, lyrically.

In an interview he gave to William S. Burroughs in 1975, the page said that when the song was composed, no member of the group had been in Kashmir.

The song runs for 8:28, a length that the radio stations usually considered too long to play. However, its release to radio stations have had no problem playing against Kashmir, especially after seeing the staircase to heaven, which was nearly as long, are so good. (The original LP decommitments graffiti physical incorrectly lists the length of songs like 9:41.)      ( Leh Ladakh )

Kashmir phase was played almost every Led Zeppelin concert from its beginning in 1975. When they performed the song, Robert Plant will switch to the last second with around after singing the first verse normally. The third would be to also normally sung in its original spot. When Led Zeppelin came together for the anniversary of Discs fortieth Atlantic in 1988, Robert accidentally sang to the second twice. He admitted to doing this oh by the father of the singer requisite four winds my sails (even) through the sea of years during the fourth verse. He never ended up singing the third verse (oh the pilot of the storm) before the error. However, he sang with the maintenance and the song of tongue during the third to while trying to fix it by singing me back again halfway through. Also the plant, known for his improvisation, while running at much discretion over Kashmir. It would add to the sweet mom slowly Dyin now just a minute, sweet darlin and stutter the words baby and mother. It would also take this section with theres no denyin while im talkin to ya. A phase of execution carried out in zeppelins at Knebworth in 1979, is described on the 2 disc Led Zeppelin DVD. This performance came from the bands first show at the venue, August 4 The surviving members of Led Zeppelin have performed together in Kashmir Atlantic discs fortieth anniversary in 1988. It was again run in the exhibition conducted meeting of the zeppelins to O2, London on 10 December 2007.

Led Zeppelin expert Dave Lewis described Kashmir as:

Undoubtedly the way the most frightening and impressive graffiti on the physical, and arguably the most progressive and most original Led Zeppelin ever recorded. Kashmir has gone a long way to establish credibility with the critics otherwise skeptical of rock. Many consider this path as the finest example of the majesty of fine chemicals of special zeppelins.

The song was ranked 140th in the list of Rolling Stones 500 greatest songs of all time in 2004.In 2009 when it was known as the 21st greatest hard rock song of all time by VH1.

Historical Temples of kashmir

Kashmir has a variety of tourist attractions; its geography and topography, its birds and animals, its lakes and woods, flora and fauna its gushing springs and orchards.But the most important attractions, according to Jonaraja and Mirza Haidar Dughlat, the two well-known historians of Kashmir are its temples.

Although many temples have been destroyed by the ravages of times, the few which still remain are things of beauty and joy for ever, they are at Pandretan, Avantipur and Martand, all of them belong to pre-sultanate period.According to Devbala Mitra, the former DG of ASI: ‘‘These temples imbibe in them all the peculiarities of the typical architecture of the valley.

The great temples of Martand and Avantipur are inspiring and instructive examples of the 8th and the 9th centuries AD.The temple of Pandrethan, though of a modest scale is interesting on account of the presence of the roof, a rare survival in Kashmir temples. While Pandrethan and Avantipur are close to the river Jhelum, Martand was built upon a hill where there is a pool at the summit. The pool is always full of fresh fish.

By the side of it is a cave the depth of which has not yet been measured. Some historians call it well of Babylon but today it is an isolated but beautiful ruin. Rajtirangani of Kalhan (1148) gives detailed account of these beautiful temples. ( Ragnya Bagwati in Kashmir )

The oldest temple is at Pandrethan built by Emperor Ashoka. Hiuen Tsang, the Chinese pilgrim who came to Kashmir in 631 AD stayed in the temple for a few nights. When the king Jaynendra of Karkota dynasty learnt about it he invited him to stay longer and placed 20 copywriters to copy the Budhist text the pilgrim wanted. Five monks waited upon him day and night. The pilgrim spent two years there, it is obvious that Kashmir at that time was a great centre of Budhist learning.

In the 12th century king Pravara Sena of Lohara dynasty built a Shiva temple there which now stands in the midst of a tank-like depression which is fed by natural springs. It is still a ‘tiratha’ for a the pilgrims. When I visited the site before the partition I saw even non-believers.

They said they were there for the sake of the beauty of the temple. Pandrethan is situated only 5 km southeast of Srinagar within its municipal limits. Once you are in Srinagar you can seen this beauty whenever you feel like.Avantipur Temples : It is located in district Anantnag on the Jammu-Srinagar highway, only 28 km from Srinagar on the mountain Wasterman over looking the river Jhelum.

Avantipur was founded by Avantivaram, the first king of the Utppala dynasty. There are two temples at Avantipuram, one of Shiva and the other of Vishnu. There were so many other temples but today only two exist blessed by the river Vitasta (Jhelum).Jonaraja, a contemporary of the most secular king of Kashmir named Zain-ul-Abdin who abolished ‘Jazia’ (1472-84) says ‘Avantipur’s was a paradise on earth. Later visitors like Moorcraft, Cunningham, Vigne all testify that it was the most beautiful spot in the valley. The work of Sir John Marshal and Dayaram Sahni on this site is commendable. ( Mata Bhuvaneshwari Harwan )

Martand Temple of the Sun : Also known as ‘Matan’, Martand is located in district Anantnag, also known as ‘Bavan’. The name of the village is derived from the name of the presiding deity ‘Martanda’. The site selected for the sun temple is a place of beauty.

A more nobler site could have been hardly imagined. Hidden by the tall trees the temple shines in sunshine like a red ball of Sun devata.Although there is a controversy but the general belief is that it was constructed by the liberal king Lalitaditya who had dreamed of annexing China in the Kashmir valley. According to ‘Ain-e-Abari’, ‘Matan stands upon a hill and once had a large temple.There is a small pool on the summit, the water of which never decreases’. It is, therefore obvious that the during the region of Akbar Martand was in ruins.

The imposing temple, even now, overwhelms the tourist and the pilgrim with its massive dignity and Kashmir-like simplicity. It is landmark in the history of temple architecture not only in Kashmir out in the whole of India of which Kashmir is a integral part and Jammu its heart. About the temples of Jammu it requires a sroarate article because Jammu is known as a city of temple with more than 300 temples in it with Raghunath Mandir as its apex-temple.Jammu and Kashmir is the nerve-Centre of our secularism with Kashmir its heart-centre and Jammu its heart beat. It is the duty of every Indian to keep both the heart-centre and the heart-beat alive.

पन्द्रेथान Temple still speaks of its grandeur and majestic look

Some twenty large Brahamanical pictures found during the process of digging of foundation of the army barracks at Pandrethan during year 1923 and 1933 are also placed in the State Museum at Srinagar. The only monument now standing at Pandrethan is a temple which enshrines a shiva Lingam that was recently installed. The temple is situated close to the main road by the side on the banks of river Jhelum. Now the temple is not acceseble for common people since it falls in the army area.The area of temple is 5.48 sq mt, with a projecting portico on each side and displays the repetition of pediment contained by pediment and trefoil with in trefoil, a true Kashmir style of architecture originated with a mixture of Greek and Roman architecture. Temple has three opening now provided with the wooden doors. The temple was made during the rule of King Partha ,who ruled Kashmir from AD 921 to 931 by his Prime Minister Meru. The temple was dedicated to Mahadev under the site of Meru Varadhamsawami.It was built in the old capital city of Pandrathan or Puranadhishtana. The seat of the Government had been transferred to the present site (Srinagar) by the King Parvarasena II nearly 500 years ago. The old capital city was entirely deserted until its destruction in the fire in the reign of Abhimanyu in about A.D 960. The magnitude of fire was so devastating that temple was protected by the water and no other building could survive The modest temple is of great interest in view of the fact that it is one of the few temples of valley which has survived with original structure & portion of the roof which furnishes a fairly good idea about what the roof of the great temples of Martand and Avantipura might have looked like before the destruction.

The existing temple now stands in the midst of water tank which is fed by natural spring। The walls of its platform remains submerged almost throughout of the year. The temple structure is fairly good state of preservation, symmetry and restraint in ornamentation. Made of ashlar stone masonery (dressed Devri stone) and the temple stands on a fairly high platform. The platform in tri-ratha on plan, the front side (north-north-west) having further divided with central projection accommodating the flight of steps with a moulded parapet.

The walls of the temple rest on a projecting member relieved with the forepart of a series of squatting elephant in the attitude of the supporting the load of the structure। The feature is unique Indian temple architecture found here, otherwise the Gandharva or celestial figures have been depicted bearing the load of the temple in other part of the country. The temple has main entrance form the east through a causeway.The level of water in the tank fluctuate with season.The ceiling of the sanctum exquisitely carved in comparison to the plain walls. It is made of lime stone slabs arranged in three oversailing courses. The four slabs of the middle course are relieved each with a flying Vidyadhara carrying a ring like object in his right hand and a lotus stalk in the left hand. A part of the scarf is seen floating in the air a Greek feature in the valley. A full blown lotus with twelve full petals is reproduced on the topmost square slab. This particular stone has been found invariably in all the Hindu temples as it signifies the ceiling stone slab over the main idol of the temple in the garbha-griha or sanctum sanctorum.

Payar temple, about 10 kilo meter from Avantipura (N H 1 A ) in Pulwama Distt. Was probably built during the same period is a miniature replica of the Pandrethan. The Payar has been constructed on a high platform with superstructure with 10 pieces of stones. These two temples complete in all respect considered Genes of Kashmiri as the temple architecture.

The monuments has been protected by the ASI under the ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites And Remains Act, 1958 and the structural consevation has been carried by ASI. The day to day maintains and up to keep has been carried out by the Indian army.