Shrine of Sharda in PoK

After Vajpayee-Musharaf meeting at Islamabad during SAARC conference from 4 to 6 January 2004 a number of CBMs between the two parts of Kashmir were initiated to normalize the situation, create friendly relations and encourage the peace process. These include the cease fire on LOC, opening of two roads across the LOC via Poonch-Rawalakote and Uri-Srinagar, meeting of divided families, and start of trade ventures etc. Accordingly Kashmiri Pandits and other religious organizations of state demanded for the opening of Sharda Shrine of POK for religious tourism so that they could have Darshan of this old temple and annual yatra of the Shrine could be revived as it was conducted before partition in the month of August. The then president of Pakistan Parvaiz Musharaf accepted the demands of the minorities of J&K in principle and sanctioned Rs. 8 crores in 2006 for creation of infrastructural facilities near the Shrine so that pilgrims could be allowed to visit. As per the information received through internet, POK government constructed some tourist huts, community centres, youth hostel and cafeteria near the Shrine but no attention was paid towards the revival of the Shrine which is in deteriorating condition. The Muslim natives of the village Sharda and adjoining areas still call the monument as Sharda Mai (Sharda Goddess). Dr. Ghulam Azhar a noted historian of POK writes in one of his research article that Sharda Shrine is the oldest monument of POK which needs preservation and restoration. The Shrine was an important pilgrim centre in the past. The ruins of the old monuments are sufficient to narrate the old glory and glamour of this Shrine.

Sharda Shrine is about 207 kilometers in the north of Muzafarabad in POK.The Shrine is situated in between 340.48'latitude and 740.14' longitude. The spot is linked with motorable road leading from Muzafarabad via Neelam valley, Kundal Shai, Jagran Valley, Athmaquam, Neelam township and Dwarian. The Sharda Temple is located near the confluence of Kishan Ganga river (Neelam river) and Madhumati stream in an open ground. It is a breath taking spot with full greenery, multicolour flowers, springs, forest belt surrounded by snow clad peaks of Sharda and Narda hills of Nanga Parbat range which divides POK from Galgit-Baltistan.

Before independence the annual Yatra of Sharda Temple was conducted from the ancient time. During Dogra rule after 1846 this Yatra had become a regular feature. The Yatra of Sharda Devi was started on Shukal Pakash during the month of August (Bhadun). The devotees would start their yatra on 4th Bhadun and on 8th they were taking dip in the Sharda Kund on the bank of Madhumati River and after giving Sharad of their Pitras (died relatives) they were having the Darshan of Sharda Goddess. Mostly Kashmiri Pandits were conducting the Yatra after traveling hundreds of miles on foot. Mr. C.E Bats, the author of the Gazetter of the Kashmir who had visited the spot in 1872 AD writes that the Sharda Tempe is situated in the confluence of river Madhumati and Kishan Ganga. The temple is approached by a stair case about nine feet wide of steep stone steps some 63 in numbers having on either side a massive balustrade. The entrance was through a double porch way at the south-west corner of enclosure. The walls of the enclosure are about 30 feet high. In the middle of the walls in the north side is an arched recess which contains Lingum. The Cella about 23 feet square stands on the elevated plinth about four feet from the present level of ground. The entrance is on the west side facing the porch way. On each of the other three sides of Cella, a single roof has y been erected over the building for the protection by the order of Colonel Gundu, the Late Zaildar of Muzafarabad. The interior of the temple is square and perfectly plain. On the ground lies a large rough slab of unpolished stone which is said to have been disturbed by Raja Manzoor Khan of Karnah in search of treasure. In those days the Shrine was venerated by both Hindus and Muslims. There was also a fort constructed by Dogras with 60 Dogra Constables stationing for the protection of Shrine and defence of the area. The ancient Shrine is about 400 yards in the south of the fort. The temple was also renovated by Colonel Gundu, the Zaildar of Muzafarabad in 1867 AD.

In the ancient time Sharda was famous in all over India. The historic facts reveal that near the Shrine there was a Budhist University established during the period of Emperor Ashoka (273BC) known as Sharda Peeth, to spread the teachings and thoughts of Budhism in Kashmir and other hilly regions. The foundation of Sharda Peeth was laid on the bank of Madhumati River. The fourth Budhist council was summoned at this place by Emperor Kanishka in 141 AD. In Sharda University, a Sharda script was invented by the Budhist monks and scholars which was the amalgation of local dialects and understandable to the common people. Therefore with the help of this script Budhism was spreaded in Kashmir, Himachal, Tibet and Nepal. However with the downfall of Budhism in India the glory and glamour of Sharda Peeth got also vanished and it became a part of the history.

Kalhana writes in Raj Tringani that in 11th century AD it was a temple of Sharda Goddess. Historian Belhana writes in Vikrama Chiriter that he has been educated only due to the blessings of Sharda Goddess whose crown was formed with the gliterring gold collected from the river Madhumati. Al Bruni who had visited India in 1036 AD writes in his book 'India' that there is a great image of Sharda and devotees assemble here for the pilgrim. Abu-ul-Fazal in Aain-e-Akbari writes that on the bank of Madhumati in Drava area of Muzafarabad there is a stone temple of Sharda Devi. Every month on the Shukal Pakash the image of the Sharda starts showing miracles. The temple is respected by large population. Therefore it appears that upto 16th century AD this temple was having great religious importance.

Juna Raj the writer of Raj Tringani Juna Raj written during the rule of Sultan Zain-ul-Ab Din of Kashmir (1420-1472 AD) records in his book that Sultan Zain-ul-Ab Din was undertaking religious pilgrim to Hindu Shrine and participating in Hindu rituals. Juna Raj also recorded that Sultan had visited Sharda temple in 1422 AD along with the Yatris. After taking bath in Madhumati stream he entered the temple but he felt annoyed on the wickedness of the priest and devotees and lost faith in the Goddess Sharda. The Goddess Sharda did not manifested herself. Sultan also slept in the temple during the night hours. But he could not see the miracles of the Goddess.

C.E Bats writes that during his visit of Sharda Devi in 1772 AD there was a Lingum and not image of Goddess Sharda. Maharaja Gulab Singh had got the temple renovated during 1846-1856 AD. He had also appointed a Brahmin priest to look after this historic temple, constructed a fort near the temple and posted 60 constables for the protection of Sharda Shrine and the area. Therefore the devotees started visiting the Shrine regularly and the ancient Yatra was revived. The devotees start their Yatra on 4th Bhadun and on 8th Bhadun they were taking dip in the Sharda Kund in the Madhumati stream and have the Darshana of the temple. This Yatra remained in vogue during Dogra period upto 1947. After the turmoil of 1947 when Kashmir was divided into two parts this important Shrine had gone under the occupation of Pakistan. For the last 62 years the Shrine remains unattended and is in ruins. But now there is a great demand from the minority population of Jammu and Kashmir state for the restoration of Sharda temple and start of the Yatra. This will be another CBM between the two parts of the Kashmir.

Author
K.D Maini

Sudhmahadev Mela 2009

The Sudh Mahadev temple is said to be 2800 years old and with a strong mythological connection. The temple houses a natural black marble lingam, the Trident of Lord Shiva and mace believed to be that of Bheema the second Pandava brother. Devak stream flows nearby where people can take a bath before entering the temple. Mysteriously the Devak stream disappears a few kilometers downstream.

Few Kilometers before Sudhmahadev, there is a place Gauri Kund. The spring is sacred to the Hindu devotees, as it is believed that the Goddess Parvati had a bath in the waters of the spring before offering her prayers to the Lord Shiva. It is around 1 km from the road and one has to go by foot. People first visit this place and take bath there and then proceed to Sudhmahadev.

At Sudhmahadev there is a spring known as Pap Nashni Bowli. It is believed that taking bath in it relieves man of all his/her sins. After taking bath one proceeds towards the holy temple of Lord Shiva.

After visiting Sudhmahadev further journey of 8 kms brings you to the enchanting hilly resort of Mantalai. Situated at the top of a hill and having tall trees of Deodar giving fresh and cool air. It is believed that Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati got married there. There is a Shiva temple and beside it a pond. Mantalai was the dream project of Swami Dharender bhramchari to make it as a famous resort for yoga, health and spiritualism but remained incomplete because of his accidental death.

During this three day mela, various arrangements are made by the Department of Tourism to provide facilities to the visitors. Adequate transport facilities are also provided by the govt. agencies from various places. Govt. also make adequate security arrangements and good health facilities are also provided .The various govt. departments put there stalls to provide information about the different schemes for the people. Various cultural programs are also organized; in these the local performers entertain the visitors by showing various local dances and singing folk songs, kud etc.
One can have accommodation in the sarai maintained by the Dharamarth trust, JKTDC provides temporary tented accommodations and beside this few guest houses are also there.

The temporary shops are also established by the people to provide various things and eatables to the visitors. Langars are also arranged by some people to provide free food to the visitors. The famous food items to eat there are Rajmash Chawal with Desi ghee and chatni of pudina and anardana, and paneer dishes. Klari or Klari kulcha is very tasty and one must eat there. Pakoras are also very tasty. Those who love sweets have Jlabis and pure Khoya to eat.Those who love shopping can buy handicraft items from the shop situated near the Shiva temple at Sudhmahadev. It is a great fair which provides lot of joy, entertainment, natural scenery and spiritual experience. So one must have experience of it.

How to reach
Sudhmahadev is 110 kms from Jammu and its altitude is 1225 meters above sea level. Reaching Sudh Mahadev is not a problem as a regular bus service connects it with Jammu. From Jammu, go to Chenani on the Jammu Kashmir National Highway. Then from Chenani take the road towards east and travel for 30 kilometers to reach the Sudhmahadev. One can also come by train up to Udhampur and then can get bus or by hiring private vehicles.

Shrine of Sharda Mata in Udhampur

Udhampur popularly known as 'the land of Druva', Headquarter of District, is named after Raja Udham Singh, the eldest son of Maharaja Gulab Singh, the founder of Dogra rule in Jammu and Kashmir. The town is said to have been built in place of dense forest where Udham Singh occasionally went on hunting trips till he developed great love for the spot and choose it as site for township. District Udhampur lies between 32 degree 34 minutes to 39 degree 30 minutes North Latitude and 74 degree 16 minutes to 75 degree 38 minutes East Longitude. The altitude of District Udhampur varies from 600 meter to 3,000 meter above sea level. The District is situated in the South-Eastern part of Jammu and Kashmir State and is bounded in the West by Rajouri District, in North-East by Doda District, in the South-East by Kathua District and in the South-West by Jammu District.

Rough terrain
District Udhampur is rich in forest wealth. The total forest area of the district is 51.49% Sarada is located within the jurisdiction of Udhampur District and forms a part of Village Gangara. The village is about 3 km from Udhampur town enroute Kashmir Valley on National Highway 1A. One has to climb a steep of about 1 km from national highway to reach the village. The name of the village is Sarada as per revenue records and it is believed that this village came into existence some 225 years ago. This village is situated on a hilltop overlooking its fields, the railway track, air strip, Udhampur town and Tawi River. The natural scenery of Sarada is very charming, surrounded by a dense forest from the West and by untrimmed trees and shrubs from other three sides. There is a steep path right from national highway up to the temple of Sarada.

Tawi valley
This path has been constructed by local residents with the help of Rural Development Department under Nehru Rojgar Yogna in the year 1981. The path is partially constructed on steps and partially by laying dressed stones all over the path up to the temple. It takes a pilgrim only half and hour to reach the temple. With the bright sunlight reflected in silvery pine trees above, and gurgling River Tawi meandering through the valley below, the pilgrim already is in a different world. The trekking undoubtedly is slow but not boring as the scenery alongside is most picturesque.

The total land under Sarada village is 243 hectares, of this, wasteland, shrub land, and the dry land count for more than 23 hectares, the habitation area, together with pathways, land owned by school and temple compound occupies nearly 66 hectares and the rest approximately 154 hectares is classified as grazing ground. ( Sudh Mahadev temple )

Sanctum Sanctorum of The temple of Sarada is situated at an altitude of 2000 feet in the North West of the village. Sarada is synonymous to Divine Mother. Sardapeeth or the abode of Sarada is the goddess of learning and fine arts. This temple came into existence when Sh. Gopal Dass of village Jakhani was in boyhood. His parents sought his admission in a nearby school. Being not interested in learning 3 R's he used to go to this place as there was shade of five black berry trees with a nice spring gushing out from the stem of a big tree.

He used to sit under the shade of these trees and return to his home at the time of closing of schools pretending that he was in school. One day while sleeping under the shade of these trees he had a celestial dream. Mother came out from one of the tree trunk and said to Sh. Gopal Dass that I am residing in the hollow stem of the tree. Sh. Gopal Dass wake up and returned to his home with heavy heart. From that day he used to carry one bag of sand everyday with an intention to construct a temple on the spot. No wonder the holy spot became a sacred shrine to which thousands of devotees not only from Udhampur but from distant places were attracted to seek blessings from Sarada Mata, the goddess in her three aspects of Sarada, Nanda and Saraswati.  ( Kheer Bhawani )

Sarada Mata's abode in Black Berry Tree
The hollow trunk of the black berry tree from where the Divine Mother was discovered become the sanctum Sanctorum of the temple which came up here with great efforts of Gopal Dass. Gopal Dass remained celibate throughout his life and is always seen in the temple premises doing some work or the other.

The entrance of the temple is from the North-East side. The Divine Mother is facing towards an ancient temple on the opposite side River Tawi situated in a depilated fort. This temple has been built by Raja Udham Singh and there is an asthapan of Mother Nanda [The joy of self-realization. Self-realization is not attained. It is bestowed by the unconditional grace of the Supreme. The supreme joy when graced upon the devotees gives him surprise beyond expectation. That is the goddess Nanda].

There is a holy spring locally known as Bowli coming out below the trunk of the holy tree, the water of which has been extended and is being stored in a closed reservoir which has two outlets. Pilgrims can take a bath under these outlets. An elderly person of the village told me that in olden days the water of the holy spring was stored in a reservoir and animal would die after taking the water from the reservoir. And in later years the animals of the village were not allowed to take the water of the holy spring.

The Sarada temple occupies the centre of a rectangular court of 150 feet long and 40 feet broad. There are four black berry trees in the compound of the temple and all are in full gloom. Only the holy tree in which Mother is having its abode bears the fruit.

Sarada Varada Devi Mookshdhartri Saraswati is a hymn meaning Sarda grants the boon of emancipation through wisdomIn dark nights under the shade of the black berry trees, the sacred place present an atmosphere where one becomes one with God. And in moonlit nights, devotees experience something mystic all over the temple of Sarada Mata.

Author Chander M. Bhat

Historical Temples of kashmir

Kashmir has a variety of tourist attractions; its geography and topography, its birds and animals, its lakes and woods, flora and fauna its gushing springs and orchards.But the most important attractions, according to Jonaraja and Mirza Haidar Dughlat, the two well-known historians of Kashmir are its temples.

Although many temples have been destroyed by the ravages of times, the few which still remain are things of beauty and joy for ever, they are at Pandretan, Avantipur and Martand, all of them belong to pre-sultanate period.According to Devbala Mitra, the former DG of ASI: ‘‘These temples imbibe in them all the peculiarities of the typical architecture of the valley.

The great temples of Martand and Avantipur are inspiring and instructive examples of the 8th and the 9th centuries AD.The temple of Pandrethan, though of a modest scale is interesting on account of the presence of the roof, a rare survival in Kashmir temples. While Pandrethan and Avantipur are close to the river Jhelum, Martand was built upon a hill where there is a pool at the summit. The pool is always full of fresh fish.

By the side of it is a cave the depth of which has not yet been measured. Some historians call it well of Babylon but today it is an isolated but beautiful ruin. Rajtirangani of Kalhan (1148) gives detailed account of these beautiful temples. ( Ragnya Bagwati in Kashmir )

The oldest temple is at Pandrethan built by Emperor Ashoka. Hiuen Tsang, the Chinese pilgrim who came to Kashmir in 631 AD stayed in the temple for a few nights. When the king Jaynendra of Karkota dynasty learnt about it he invited him to stay longer and placed 20 copywriters to copy the Budhist text the pilgrim wanted. Five monks waited upon him day and night. The pilgrim spent two years there, it is obvious that Kashmir at that time was a great centre of Budhist learning.

In the 12th century king Pravara Sena of Lohara dynasty built a Shiva temple there which now stands in the midst of a tank-like depression which is fed by natural springs. It is still a ‘tiratha’ for a the pilgrims. When I visited the site before the partition I saw even non-believers.

They said they were there for the sake of the beauty of the temple. Pandrethan is situated only 5 km southeast of Srinagar within its municipal limits. Once you are in Srinagar you can seen this beauty whenever you feel like.Avantipur Temples : It is located in district Anantnag on the Jammu-Srinagar highway, only 28 km from Srinagar on the mountain Wasterman over looking the river Jhelum.

Avantipur was founded by Avantivaram, the first king of the Utppala dynasty. There are two temples at Avantipuram, one of Shiva and the other of Vishnu. There were so many other temples but today only two exist blessed by the river Vitasta (Jhelum).Jonaraja, a contemporary of the most secular king of Kashmir named Zain-ul-Abdin who abolished ‘Jazia’ (1472-84) says ‘Avantipur’s was a paradise on earth. Later visitors like Moorcraft, Cunningham, Vigne all testify that it was the most beautiful spot in the valley. The work of Sir John Marshal and Dayaram Sahni on this site is commendable. ( Mata Bhuvaneshwari Harwan )

Martand Temple of the Sun : Also known as ‘Matan’, Martand is located in district Anantnag, also known as ‘Bavan’. The name of the village is derived from the name of the presiding deity ‘Martanda’. The site selected for the sun temple is a place of beauty.

A more nobler site could have been hardly imagined. Hidden by the tall trees the temple shines in sunshine like a red ball of Sun devata.Although there is a controversy but the general belief is that it was constructed by the liberal king Lalitaditya who had dreamed of annexing China in the Kashmir valley. According to ‘Ain-e-Abari’, ‘Matan stands upon a hill and once had a large temple.There is a small pool on the summit, the water of which never decreases’. It is, therefore obvious that the during the region of Akbar Martand was in ruins.

The imposing temple, even now, overwhelms the tourist and the pilgrim with its massive dignity and Kashmir-like simplicity. It is landmark in the history of temple architecture not only in Kashmir out in the whole of India of which Kashmir is a integral part and Jammu its heart. About the temples of Jammu it requires a sroarate article because Jammu is known as a city of temple with more than 300 temples in it with Raghunath Mandir as its apex-temple.Jammu and Kashmir is the nerve-Centre of our secularism with Kashmir its heart-centre and Jammu its heart beat. It is the duty of every Indian to keep both the heart-centre and the heart-beat alive.

पन्द्रेथान Temple still speaks of its grandeur and majestic look

Some twenty large Brahamanical pictures found during the process of digging of foundation of the army barracks at Pandrethan during year 1923 and 1933 are also placed in the State Museum at Srinagar. The only monument now standing at Pandrethan is a temple which enshrines a shiva Lingam that was recently installed. The temple is situated close to the main road by the side on the banks of river Jhelum. Now the temple is not acceseble for common people since it falls in the army area.The area of temple is 5.48 sq mt, with a projecting portico on each side and displays the repetition of pediment contained by pediment and trefoil with in trefoil, a true Kashmir style of architecture originated with a mixture of Greek and Roman architecture. Temple has three opening now provided with the wooden doors. The temple was made during the rule of King Partha ,who ruled Kashmir from AD 921 to 931 by his Prime Minister Meru. The temple was dedicated to Mahadev under the site of Meru Varadhamsawami.It was built in the old capital city of Pandrathan or Puranadhishtana. The seat of the Government had been transferred to the present site (Srinagar) by the King Parvarasena II nearly 500 years ago. The old capital city was entirely deserted until its destruction in the fire in the reign of Abhimanyu in about A.D 960. The magnitude of fire was so devastating that temple was protected by the water and no other building could survive The modest temple is of great interest in view of the fact that it is one of the few temples of valley which has survived with original structure & portion of the roof which furnishes a fairly good idea about what the roof of the great temples of Martand and Avantipura might have looked like before the destruction.

The existing temple now stands in the midst of water tank which is fed by natural spring। The walls of its platform remains submerged almost throughout of the year. The temple structure is fairly good state of preservation, symmetry and restraint in ornamentation. Made of ashlar stone masonery (dressed Devri stone) and the temple stands on a fairly high platform. The platform in tri-ratha on plan, the front side (north-north-west) having further divided with central projection accommodating the flight of steps with a moulded parapet.

The walls of the temple rest on a projecting member relieved with the forepart of a series of squatting elephant in the attitude of the supporting the load of the structure। The feature is unique Indian temple architecture found here, otherwise the Gandharva or celestial figures have been depicted bearing the load of the temple in other part of the country. The temple has main entrance form the east through a causeway.The level of water in the tank fluctuate with season.The ceiling of the sanctum exquisitely carved in comparison to the plain walls. It is made of lime stone slabs arranged in three oversailing courses. The four slabs of the middle course are relieved each with a flying Vidyadhara carrying a ring like object in his right hand and a lotus stalk in the left hand. A part of the scarf is seen floating in the air a Greek feature in the valley. A full blown lotus with twelve full petals is reproduced on the topmost square slab. This particular stone has been found invariably in all the Hindu temples as it signifies the ceiling stone slab over the main idol of the temple in the garbha-griha or sanctum sanctorum.

Payar temple, about 10 kilo meter from Avantipura (N H 1 A ) in Pulwama Distt. Was probably built during the same period is a miniature replica of the Pandrethan. The Payar has been constructed on a high platform with superstructure with 10 pieces of stones. These two temples complete in all respect considered Genes of Kashmiri as the temple architecture.

The monuments has been protected by the ASI under the ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites And Remains Act, 1958 and the structural consevation has been carried by ASI. The day to day maintains and up to keep has been carried out by the Indian army.